Top 10 best British islands: No 5 - Jura

Jura, Inner Hebrides, Scotland

Jura is wild. It chewed us up and spat us out and we loved (nearly) every minute of it. We failed to complete Evan's Walk, a six mile route along a stalker's path to Glenbatrick, because we couldn't cross a river. We were confused, befuddled and beaten by the Paps – Jura's crowning glory of three peaks – leaving us shaking on a narrow ridge as a rescue helicopter flew beneath us, giving us 'the sign' to go no further. As for the Corryvreckan whirlpool off the northern tip of the island, it was completely out of reach for two people on foot who had a bus to catch and a warm bed to return to.

Despite, or perhaps because of our over-riding sense of failure Jura stole our hearts. The island may be indomitable and harsh for the most part, but Jura also has some genuinely gorgeous, softer corners. It was an easy pleasure strolling northwards along the quiet, pot-holed road for instance, past turquoise inlets, charming houses and leafy glades. We stumbled across two adders knotted together, noticed a bat flying in broad daylight and marvelled at the carnivorous sundew plant. Memorable moments for sure, but we will return for the wild parts of the island that beat us on our first encounter.

Jura is in the Top 10... for its immediate, exhausting, seductive wildness.

How big is Jura?

 
Hamish Haswell-Smith is still the undisputed expert on Scottish islands. While comparing the commonly held top 10 largest islands in Britain against our list from Ordnance Survey I was surprised to find a few points of difference. Casting around for some official figures I was astonished to find that there didn't seem to be any. Indeed, both Wikipedia and RJ Berry in the New Naturalists' Islands quote Haswell-Smith's calculations. For his results he used a planimeter to measure "the total surface area lying above sea level at Mean High Water Springs." Out of curiosity I thought I might check his results using some "digitalised map data" that he predicted would be available in the future. I used Daft Logic's online map calculator tool and after some initial excitement spent way too long plotting points around the perimeter of Jura, mimicking the planimeter but with less accuracy. Anyway, the result of my fruitless evening suggest no reason to quibble with Hamish.

My calculation for Jura is 36,359.38 hectares, Hamish's is 36,692 hectares.

T's favourite island moments of 2009

1. Jura

We failed to climb a Pap and we failed to complete Evans walk, but we couldn't fail to fall in love with this incredible island. We saw our first adder, our first butterwort, and our second otter.

2. Muck

Free of light pollution, the sky was so dark and the stars so bright that they looked like diamonds. The bunkhouse was heated by a Rayburn stove, and we ate our own body weight in ginger biscuits.

3. Tiree

We walked to the supermarket across a bay so vast and empty that it felt as though we might fall into the sky. We stayed on a farm where we experienced new life emerging, right on our doorstep.

Outdoor Photography Island Journal Pt 4

The new Island Journal can be found in the Christmas issue of Outdoor Photography Magazine. 

Arran - day 1 - Corrie

Jura Fell Race camp

Lift with Linda - fell runners festival spirit - coffee at The Antlers - ferry to Islay - three-hour wait in Fawlty Towers - old lady belching like a sailor - Japanese traveller slurping over a seafood platter - sitting in the rain - smooth crossing to the mainland - a promise broken - anxious wait in the bus shelter - amber alert - rocky crossing - family reunion - roast dinner

Jura - day 7 - to the end of the road

Eilean an Rubha

Early bus - local gossip from Gwen - a free ride refused - Lussa Bay - riverside woodland walk - Eilean an Rubha explored - tropical conditions at Ardlussa Bay - clouds and silence / water and birdsong - end of the public road - blackbird bathing in the burn - milk and bread delivered - a hairy pig - the generous Mr Berry - evening light over Lowlandman's Bay     

Jura - day 6 - to Tarbert

Tarbert churchyard Standing Stone

Long road - rain shower - shelter beneath a rowan tree - Lagg pier - long funeral procession - acrobatic bat - Loch Tarbet - a beetle in full armor  

Jura - day 5 - Beinn an Oir

ridge to summit of Beinn an Oir

A bid for the summit - boggy ascent - unclear path - rain - hail - sun - loose and crumbling scree - frustration - exhilaration - stunning panorama - dampness of descending clouds - fear - adrenalin - failure - disappointment  

Jura - day 4 - Jura Gardens

Jura Gardens

Wild camper with two jam jars - red campion and buttercups in Jura Gardens - tea tent without tea - hot road through a cut forest - coffee and lemon drizzle cake - the story of a Scandinavian prince and a whirlpool 

Jura - day 3 - Craighouse

Craighouse jetty

The arched back of an otter - tales of an electrical storm from a salty sea dog - a wee dram at Jura distillery - missed bus - beach stroll - the golden colours of a barn owl patrolling a field

Jura - day 2 - Evan's walk

Beinn Shiantaidh, Jura

Evan's walk - boggy ground - cotton grass - wet feet - lure of the Paps - water racing to the sea - two adders basking in the sun - a river too deep to cross - walk abandoned - disappointment soon replaced by respect for the landscape - an owl looks for dinner  

Jura - day 1 - Knockrome

the paps of Jura

Cheese & ham toastie at the Cottage Restaurant - too much luggage - rectangular copper kettle in the snug bar - a harbour full of jellyfish - swaying boat - a kind gesture - butterwort in bloom - evening stroll to the trig - a positive feeling - light