Showing posts with label Barra. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Barra. Show all posts

Friday, 27 July 2012

Top 10 best British islands: No. 3 – Barra


Barra was the one island we had always wanted to visit before we began A British Island Adventure. Drawn as we were by its tropical white sands and the very idea of landing a passenger plane on a cockleshell beach. When we finally reached Barra, it wasn't by aircraft but it didn't disappoint. We sailed from Oban to Castlebay on the CalMac ferry, taking around five hours to reach our destination after sailing through the Sound of Mull, and into the Sea of the Hebrides with glimpses of Coll, Skye and the Small Isles along the way.

In many ways Barra is the ultimate Hebridean island – remote from the mainland it has a strong independent community that speaks Gaelic as often as not, and still fills the local churches. The size of the island seems just right, striking a satisfying balance between a 1,000 strong population and the wild, empty landscape of mountain and moor. It offers the experience of being apart from the world, yet without too much of the hardship that can be found on smaller islands.

The 383m summit of Sheabhal is perhaps the best place to understand Barra. From here you can see how Barra lies at the southern end of the Outer Hebrides, linked to Vatersay by bridge. How the north and west sides are edged with sandy beaches and the east coast frays away, giving in to the claim of the sea in the form of ragged inlets and hidden bays. Looking south, the chain continues way beyond Barra in a submerged mountain range of uninhabited islands: Sandray, Pabbay, Mingulay and Berneray to finish.

Barra is in the top 10... for being the epitome of a Hebridean island

Wednesday, 1 February 2012

Barra airport: the most scenic airport in the world


The Telegraph has a feature this week on the planet's top 10 most scenic airport approaches and landings as voted for by readers of PrivateFly.com. It's no surprise to see Barra included, as it's the only beach runway for scheduled flights in the world. Unfortunately, T and I haven't been on the plane but we did get a very close look when it flew straight over our heads to land. As The Telegraph used one of T's pics to illustrate the article, I thought it might be a good time to show off a few more photos to describe this unique event.





Flybe and British Airways fly to Barra in the Outer Hebrides from as far afield as Southampton, Paris and Dusseldorf. The Twin Otter plane lands on the two mile cockle beach at Traigh Mhor, in the northeast corner of the island. Whenever the windsock blows, the beach needs to be evacuated for the approaching aircraft. Unsurprisingly, the timetable must remain flexible as the runway is submerged beneath the sea twice a day.

Tuesday, 21 September 2010

Friday, 7 May 2010

Barra - day 7 - Eoligarry

the jetty at Eoligarry, Barra
Softening wind, sunny day - walk to the ferry terminal and then the Cockle Strand airport - cars congregate for the plane landing - resting on a low dune, a buzzing sound approaches - the plane seems slow, then incredibly quick as it swoops over our heads like North by Northwest to land - five people spill out - lapwings try to keep the cows off their nests - beautiful Eoligarry, if only the water was warmer - the little caravan is here - successive curves of white sand - a half submerged scrap heap in the dunes - not wanting this perfection to end we walk to where the road stops and look at Fiaraigh - a green Jesus at St Barr's Church reminds us of Guatemala - long walk back with aching feet, knees and shoulders

Thursday, 6 May 2010

Barra - day 6 - East Barra

looking down from Sheabhal to Mingulay
On the 9:40 bus to Castlebay an elderly couple sit in front us, both with hearing aids, holding hands - visit the public library, which resides in the local school - internet access! - we depart the one room Heritage Centre museum without shelling out the £3 entry fee - the owner of Kisimul Cafe sits outside sipping a coffee and eating a lorne sausage bap while waving to passers-by - ascend Sheabhal - superlative views to Mingulay - descend, and follow the east road northwards - pass inlets like a rocky Maldives - horn spoons and painted stones from the craft shop

Wednesday, 5 May 2010

Barra - day 5 - Castlebay

lunch at Hebridean Toffee, Barra
Lowering cloud - a working morning for T - puzzled by the buses - haphazardly document the islands of Bagh Thiarabhagh - a sombre afternoon bus into Castlebay - a visit to Hebridean Toffee - a boat over to Kisimul Castle - Spurs v Man City on the radio - attempt to send the island journal from outside but get no signal, only a passing police officer

Tuesday, 4 May 2010

Barra - day 4 - Vatersay

Vatersay caravan
Alarm start - grey with limited visibility - 9:40 bus to Castlebay - at the bus stop T talks to a local who sounds like he hasn't spoken for a week - "It's always like this in May" he manages - on the bus four local women share two seats, cheerfully gossiping - three local men sit separately in silence - stop at the Kisimul for coffee, served by one of the ladies on the bus - our second bus picks up a dishevelled chap with a bag of drink, his day sorted - across the causeway to hilly, empty Vatersay - the perfect, sheltered beach at Vatersay Bay - the misty, heavy lumps of the southerly islands - pass the crashed plane of '44 on the road to Uidh and another double-backed beach - the drizzle slowly soaks us through - return home and it's mild and wet - darkness falls just before 10

Monday, 3 May 2010

Barra - day 3 - West Barra

whale bone
Bank holiday buses run as normal - sunny but cold on the ears - discovery of a whale vertebrae - white, wind-blown sandy beach at Allathasdal - eider duck synchronised swimming - bare foot over coarse sand and machair - red river - a scene from Brokeback Beach - houses jostle in the flat plains beneath Sheabhal - bus confusion and a double-paced march to Castlebay - rescued by our taxi driver from yesterday (free of charge!) - a rickety red bus - smoke fills the valley from the burning of the heather - "Jeez Ian you're keen today" as the bus hurtles past a stop - bath and radio - stoke fire, write journal, sit

Sunday, 2 May 2010

Barra - day 2 - North Barra

dunes of Traigh Eais, Barra
A cuckoo calls as we walk the back road - families scatter from the church - mounds of cockle shells among rusting vehicles at the fish factory - couples sun themselves in garden chairs backed against their houses - the huge, wet, crunchy cockle beach that doubles as an airport - lunch in the dunes of Traigh Eais - sand is delicately lifted on to me by the wind as I snooze - dark clouds build in the distance - shelter from the rain in the baggage handling depot (similar to a bus stop) - aborted walk to Orasaigh over the endless beach -

Saturday, 1 May 2010

Barra - day 1 - Oban to Castlebay

Ferry from Oban to Castlebay, Barra

Anaemic B&B sausage - a morning taster of the Double Distilled malt at the Oban Distillery - creme brulee chocolates in the choc shop before the ferry crossing - a Co-Op dash - an unbeatable smoked salmon sandwich from the seafood hut - the ultimate Hebridean route passing Kerrera, Mull, Coll, The Small Isles and Skye - freezing wind, lonely waters - at Castlebay our fellow passengers disappear and we're left alone - our taxi driver has a sing-song voice - the road rolls us up and down, skimming the many inlets - houses crash land anywhere - islands hover on the horizon - dropped at Breurnish to our own private paradise - the tallest bed we've ever seen - the wind whistles around the cottage