Essex - day 2: Battlesbridge

The Essex mist rolled in overnight, veiling the Manor House for the rest of the day.

Travelling across country to Wallasea Island we had to perform an emergency stop at the sight of Battlesbridge antiques centre. The village of Battlesbridge is given over entirely to the selling of antiques and crafts, where over 80 dealers ply their wares from a variety of shops and stalls.

Throughout Essex, the ramshackle, make-do display of goods is an endearing feature of roadside commerce. These types of places have been lost to the areas I know: the neatened-up New Forest and ironed-out East Sussex.

A typical antique shop at Battlesbridge

The £1 stall next to the toilets offered up a couple of gems, including a sorry looking porcelain clown with its head chopped off.

Five floors up, at the very top of the Antique and Craft Centre, resides the Willow Tea Room. Its offerings may be distinctly 1980s, but the view down the River Crouch more than make up for it.

Inside the Willow Tea Room

Coffee and cake in the Willow Tea Room

Just before reaching Wallasea Island, T's Outdoor Photography eye was drawn to this lonely looking shed. As we circled the building, set-up the tripod and took photos from a variety of angles, Lion Creek steadily filled up with its chocolatey, Willy Wonka water.

Wallasea Island, Essex

Wallasea Island is practically a single giant field – a vast plane of green slotted against the sky.

 

   

The exception lies in a clump of industry squeezed into the island’s northwest corner composed of a caravan park, pub, dockyard and marina.

 

The surrounding landscape can't help but get you into a horizontal frame of mind.

Wallasea Island marina

As you walk the sea wall, along the northern edge of the island, Burnham-on-Crouch comes into view.

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The misty, bone-chilling day suited Wallasea and its forlorn atmosphere, broken only by the intermittent explosions from the nearby military ranges.

Along  the north coast of Wallasea, a lot of work is being done by the RSPB to create a sustainable intertidal coastal marshland for wildlife, and to improve access for visitors. The Wallasea Island Wild Coast Project is scheduled for completion by 2019, but will be open to visitors throughout the reconstruction.

Breaches in the old sea wall have allowed the water to encroach and create lagoons for wading birds.

During our walk out to the eastern edge of Wallasea the basins filled with water. On our way back they were emptied, showing just how dynamic the habitat is.

A view over to neighbouring Foulness Island is the reward for reaching Wallasea's east coast.

Essex - day 1: Maldon

We had no time to explore our Osea Island home – a Thames barge was awaiting us at Maldon quay and we needed to be off the island by 10am before the causeway flooded. Once off, there could be no return until 6pm.

The original causeway was built by the Romans, and its current incarnation is no friend to cars. Over a mile long, it's a strange and bumpy journey through the mud flats. But, like a mobile hide, the car took us much closer to curlews and redshanks than we could ever get on foot.

Unfortunately, we never made our appointment with the Thames barge. We went to A&E instead. After a few hours of sitting and pondering the amount of arm injuries in Chelmsford, and ten minutes with a doctor, we set out for Maldon.

Only to be distracted by a fibreglass cow on a roof and a collection of other animals, rock stars, and Egyptian gods tempting the discerning horticulturist at Jewels Garden Centre.

These characters were in a shed, as though kidnapped from a cartoon.

Eventually we reached Maldon, along with everyone else in Essex who were all out enjoying the sunshine. And we could see why: Maldon's Promenade Park must have something for everyone. There's a sandpit, a lake, a splash pool, a galleon play area, a boating pond, a skate park, a promenade, a tree trail, many burger bars, a seafood hut, two pubs, a church, stacks of historic barges and a menu for dogs. Who couldn't find something to occupy themselves here, man or beast?

Every sunny day needs a gang of bikers.

Thistle was the vessel we were supposed to sail on, moored up for the evening.

A cross-section of the British public return from the end of the promenade, more fulfilled than they were when they set out...

...after seeing the statue of Byrntnoth staring out to sea. He, and his Anglo-Saxon forces, confronted the Vikings at the Battle of Maldon in 991AD where he lost his life at the age of 68.

Northey Island, Essex

Almost the entire perimeter of Essex can be travelled on foot, often on top of a sea wall. It is here that you can fully experience the never-ending cycle of sea and mud. Mud sounds so unappealing, yet when you look at it, it can be as reflective as water and just as changeable in colour. One advantage mud has over the sea, is its fascinating range of textures. Another is the satisfying explosion it makes when you throw a great big stone into it.

Stepping off the promenade at Maldon gave us our first close encounter with the Essex mud, as we followed the coast a short way to Northey Island. Hardly anyone ventured down this way, which seemed a shame. It provided such a nice contrast to Promenade Park.

Northey Island is owned by the National Trust. As well as being a nature reserve, it has a five bedroom house available for holiday lets. Like neighbouring Osea Island it is joined to the mainland by a causeway, and with the tide out we were sorely tempted to nip over. But being the law-abiding citizens that we are, we obeyed the PRIVATE sign and phoned the number on the NT poster for permission to cross. Immediate permission was not forthcoming. National Trust cards were mentioned instead, and that we should book an appointment to be shown around. We said we'd phone later in the week but the tides confounded us.

Northey Island causeway

We headed back as the sun set.

Coming soon: Essex

We're sorting through the notes and photos of our most recent trip to Essex and will be updating the blog ASAP. Suffice to say, Essex was a lot more interesting than we expected.

Top 10 best British islands: No 5 - Jura

Jura, Inner Hebrides, Scotland

Jura is wild. It chewed us up and spat us out and we loved (nearly) every minute of it. We failed to complete Evan's Walk, a six mile route along a stalker's path to Glenbatrick, because we couldn't cross a river. We were confused, befuddled and beaten by the Paps – Jura's crowning glory of three peaks – leaving us shaking on a narrow ridge as a rescue helicopter flew beneath us, giving us 'the sign' to go no further. As for the Corryvreckan whirlpool off the northern tip of the island, it was completely out of reach for two people on foot who had a bus to catch and a warm bed to return to.

Despite, or perhaps because of our over-riding sense of failure Jura stole our hearts. The island may be indomitable and harsh for the most part, but Jura also has some genuinely gorgeous, softer corners. It was an easy pleasure strolling northwards along the quiet, pot-holed road for instance, past turquoise inlets, charming houses and leafy glades. We stumbled across two adders knotted together, noticed a bat flying in broad daylight and marvelled at the carnivorous sundew plant. Memorable moments for sure, but we will return for the wild parts of the island that beat us on our first encounter.

Jura is in the Top 10... for its immediate, exhausting, seductive wildness.

Outdoor Photography: Island Journal Pt 19

In part 19 of Tracy Hallett's Island Journal, T catches up with Hayling Island and ponders what constitutes an island. The article appears in Outdoor Photography magazine, Issue 151, April  2012.

Island jobs: run a B&B on Canna

The view from the NTS cottage on Canna

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If you’re at work now, look out of the window. How would you like to exchange it for the view above? Well you can, if you want to run a B&B on a remote Scottish island. The island in question is Canna, the most westerly part of The Small Isles, and it is easily one of the most isolated islands we’ve visited. On the map it looks close to neighbouring Skye and Rum, but just getting there makes you realise how far away it is. The 2.5 hour ferry trip doesn’t run everyday and there’s no shop. But this sense of isolation is what makes it so special, along with the beautiful views over Sanday to Rum. If you crave hard work, enjoy the full gamut of weather conditions, wish to be a key part of a small community and cook a mean breakfast then send in your application to the National Trust of Scotland.

Resources

Here's a few of our favourite links that you may have missed if you're not following us on Facebook:

• A virtual tour of Lindisfarne (Holy Island) // www.aidanandhilda.org
• The island we will be staying on next week // www.oseaisland.co.uk
• A visit to Rye with the The Lost Promenade // www.lostpromenade.wordpress.com
• An astounding scale model of the universe // www.htwins.net
• Will Self interview on Psychogeography // www.worldhum.com

Top 10 best British islands: No 6 - Shiant Islands

Shiant Islands, Outer Hebrides, Scotland

We couldn't get to St Kilda, so we settled for the Shiant Islands. Second best, or so we thought at the time. A short boat trip with Sea Harris carried us to this tiny archipelago that lies to the east of Tarbert, Lewis and Harris. 

A row of jagged islets, called the Galtachean, point the way to the two main islands. The largest is split in two, but joined by a ridge of pebbles occasionally breached by extreme high tides or storms. Garbh Eilean (Rough Island), to the north, is dauntingly steep and perilous to climb. We heeded our guide's warning and stuck to the more accessible Eilean an Tigh (House Island). As the name suggests, one small dwelling stands upon it, providing temporary shelter for the Shiant's owner and the occasional plucky visitor, as well as being a permanent home for the black rats that inhabit the island. The second island, Eilean Mhuir (Mary's Island), stands apart, yet remains close enough to form a bay that was filled with puffins when we visited in June.

The Shiant Islands receive less visitors than Staffa and St Kilda, yet boast some spectacular geological features of their own: columnar basalt sea cliffs, made from the same type of rock that forms Staffa, rear vertically upwards to a height of 120m above the sea. Various seabirds nest on the exposed ledges like ornaments on a shelf, while Great skuas and Great black-backed gulls circle the rim of the cliff in anticipation of an easy meal. It's an inspiring sight whether you're at the bottom looking up or at the top looking down. 

The Shiant Islands is in the top 10... for their magnificent 120m sea cliffs.

Top 10 best British islands: No. 7 - Staple Island

Staple Island, Farne Islands, Northumberland, England

We set sail on Billy Shiel's Glad Tidings IV on a two-stop voyage to the Farne Islands, disembarking at Staple Island and Inner Farne. Our vessel was crammed with photographers, each trying to outdo the other with the size of their telephoto lenses. Collectively we had one aim: to see and photograph the puffins. For those less star-struck, there were also a few thousand terns, guillemots, shags and kittiwakes to observe.

As we neared the islands, increasing numbers of birds began to plop into the water, streaks of puffins criss-crossed the sky in mechanical flight, and the entire landscape fizzed with creatures energetically going about their business. 

Hopping onto Staple Island, we were thrust among the nesting seabirds – a low rope fence being their only protection. You couldn't get closer to a wild animal without holding one. Every colour, texture and marking was apparent as they preened, ate, built nests, took-off, and landed right in front of us. Undoubtedly the Farne Islands are a paradise for photographers as much as for birds.

Staple Island is in the Top 10... for being home to one of the most extraordinary wildlife experiences in Britain.

Top 10 best British islands: No. 8 - Lindisfarne

Lindisfarne, Northumberland, England

No ferries are needed to reach the Holy Island of Lindisfarne in Northumberland. One road leads to the island, but not all of the time. Twice a day the North Sea surges across the tarmac, cutting off the island from the mainland. For the more romantic, or religious, the island can be gained using the Pilgrim's Way. At low tide a three and a half mile route, marked out in a straight line of tall wooden poles, stretches across the sand. Pilgrims have followed this footpath for centuries to visit the Holy Island. A wooden monastery was founded here in 635AD by the Irish missionary Saint Aiden with the aim of spreading the Christian message throughout pagan England. These days the religious side of the island jostles for the tourist's attention with the castle, tearooms and natural wonders, but the underlying spirituality remains key to the unique atmosphere of Lindisfarne. 

If at all possible, we'd recommend staying a night so you can get a better sense of isolation and a quieter, more private experience of the place. 

Lindisfarne is in the Top 10... for the historical, beautiful and spiritual experience of walking the Pilgrim's Way to reach the island.

Postcards: Valentine's Hayling Island

T found this postcard in Lewes Town Hall market today. It was bought for the lovely scenes of Hayling Island in 1964 that are, for the most part, still familiar nowadays. It was only after closer inspection at home that we realised it was printed by Valentine's of Dundee. How satisfying.

Top 10 best British islands: No. 9 - Lewis and Harris

Lewis and Harris, Outer Hebrides, Scotland

Lewis and Harris is Britain's largest island, aside from mainland Britain itself. Although it's only one island it is often thought of as two, with Lewis to the north and Harris to the south. Harris in particular is a place to savour.

The journey from North Uist to Harris' capital Tarbert has to be one of the most scenic in Britain. It begins with a CalMac ferry trip from Berneray that weaves a precise route through the scores of rocks and islets of The Sound of Harris before docking at Leverburgh. From there the west coast road skirts huge sandy bays, and milky blue water. Eventually the road coils up into the rounded, rocky hills – a desolate expanse scoured and blunted by the weather. The road then descends again to Tarbert, which lies on a narrow isthmus and acts as a crossroad for the entire island. Head northwards for the mountains that include An Cliseam at 799m, eastwards to the island of Scalpay or westward along another incredible coastal road to Huisinis – none of these options will disappoint.

Harris is in the Top 10... for its sharply contrasting landscapes that range from idyllic beaches to lunar-like mountains.

Top 10 best British islands: No. 10 - Tiree

Tiree, Inner Hebrides, Scotland

We had never heard of Tiree before we began our project. It looked tantalising on the map – being the most westerly island of the Inner Hebrides, it gives the impression of drifting away from the archipelago towards the Outer Hebrides.

The CalMac ferry took us from Oban, through the Sound of Mull to Coll, where we stayed for a week before continuing the short journey to neighbouring Tiree. From the ferry, the island appeared to float like a thin disc on the sea. Due to its incredible flatness most of the island barely rises above sea level. Standing on the enormous, never-ending beach at Gott Bay it's hard to believe the island even exists – there seems to be no room left between the sea and the sky for the land to fit. Adding to its magical feel, a ring of sandy beaches encompass the entire island. Inland, almost every inch is divided up into neat, green rectangles of crofting land, then scattered with sheep. The people speak Gaelic, their traditional culture is strong, and it goes without saying how friendly and welcoming everyone is.

We knew nothing of Tiree, but now that we've visited, the island seems just as imaginary – a fictional island from a children's book, too good to be true.

Tiree is in the Top 10... for its awe-inspiring collision of sand, sea and sky.

Our favourite British islands... so far

With the island counter standing at 447, we thought it was high time we published a list of our 10 top trips so far. Although it might sound like a lot, we're still a long way from our goal and must admit to some major blind spots. The Orkneys and Shetlands are the obvious ones, but we've also been thwarted by the sea conditions in Wales whenever we've tried to reach the smaller islands.

When we reminisce about our favourite islands, it's amazing how often our memories are influenced by the weather. If we could return to Coll during a sunny week in early summer, for example, we're certain it would be battling for a place in the Top 10. But as it was, we travelled early in the year, without a car, and with the wind in our faces getting anywhere on a bike was seriously hard work. This experience couldn't help but cloud our view.

Undoubtedly all 447 of the islands have rewarded the effort spent getting to them, because there is always something unexpected to see. However much you know about a location beforehand, the element of surprise is still a huge part of the experience. Every island is different every day, so that makes our list entirely personal and subject to change as we visit more of them. Having said that, we would heartily recommend any island in our Top 10 as a brilliant destination for a holiday or day trip.

A British Island Adventure is now on facebook

If you love Britain and its remoter reaches 'Like us' on facebook and keep up to date with our island adventure. Help us to choose our next destinations, recommend your favourite island places and share your own island experiences. We'll also aim to keep track of any developments in island tourism, regional produce and special offers.

Outdoor Photography: Island Journal Pt 18

The latest installment of T's Island Journal takes stock of our experiences so far, while reflecting on some of the best moments.  In Outdoor Photography magazine, Issue 149, February 2012, you can read about T's best walk, day trip, fish and chips, wildlife experience, bit of kit, beach and photographic experience.

A winter visit to Hayling Island - day 2

The alarm goes off at 6:25AM and we bundle into the icy car for another day at Hayling Island. The sun is well and truly up when we arrive at 7:30. Later on, the ferryman will kindly point out that we should've been here at 5:45 to see the sun come up, proving so with a nice shot he took on his phone. The yacht club is incredibly busy – vans and cars with trailers arrive constantly. Parents and kids unpack the gear and set up the boats with their bare, frozen hands! It's not until 11:00 that we get a well earned coffee and bacon bap from the spotless Ferry cafe. T's satisfied with her pictures but we carry on to The Kench, check out the Sinah Warren Hotel and stop by Northney Marina before we agree it's time to head home.

Dune protection at the yacht club

The ferry arrives from Eastney, Portsmouth

Dunes at Sinah Common

Bacon baps from the Ferry Cafe

Icy crust on the shoreline

The strange pool at Sinah Warren hotel