Top 10 best British islands: No.1 – Rum

Due to the vagaries of the Small Isles ferry, we spent a bit longer on Rum than we anticipated. You might think that eight days would be too long to stay on an island that only supports a handful of houses and a shop in a shed. But the longer we stayed, the more we came to love the place.

It certainly helped that we were staying in one of the oak panelled rooms at Kinloch Castle. Considering the remoteness of the island, the accommodation was amazing. Instead of the usual spartan hostel experience, it was more like staying in a millionaire's mansion, albeit one with a hint of The Shining as the place wound down for the end of the season.

The real pleasure of Rum though, is in it's wildness. A single track, only suitable for off-road vehicles, runs from Kinloch and splits in two near the centre of the island. One track heads for Harris in the southwest and the Bullough Mausoleum. The other to Kilmory in the north, where you will find red deer on the beach. That's it. To see anywhere else you have to venture into the wild. And the best place to go is up into the Rum Cuillin. It's a long trudge up, of course, but the double horseshoe of peaks surrounded by water is truly spectacular, rivalling any landscape you will see in Britain.

Rum is in the top 10... for its awesome wildness and spectacular Cuillin

Top 10 best British islands: No. 2 – St Mary's

Everyone had told us how good the Isles of Scilly are but its charms just seemed too obvious and too easy compared to the remote, less popular, Scottish isles. After all, the archipelago has everything going for it – being the most southerly of the British islands and enjoying its own balmy microclimate. A place of gorgeous sandy beaches and clear, shallow water that seems more like the Med than a corner of Britain. Where was the challenge? We turned up thinking we knew exactly what to expect and yet still the place was a surprise, managing to win over our cynical hearts as soon as we docked at St Mary's on the rickety old Scillonian III.

In many ways the islands fulfil every expectation of what an island should be. The key basics of rock and sand, turquoise water and blazing sunsets are all present and correct. Most importantly there is the feeling of escape – adrift from the mainland you are immersed in the elements: sea, sun, wind and rain in a vast arena of big sky and distant horizon. This small collection of modest islands are connected by the toing-and-froing of open-topped boats, conveying the hoards from St Mary's to St Agnes, Tresco, Bryher or St Martin's. Each island an individual, yet part of the whole.

We loved St Mary's best of all. Despite being the hub of the archipelago and so the most populous, it combines a calm, agricultural interior with a craggy, gruff shoreline that has plenty of lonely spots to while away the hours. We snorkelled in the freezing water and spotted autumn lady's-tresses spiking the old garrison walls, we criss-crossed the island's country lanes and never tired of the view from our cottage across the harbour. So, when asked about the Isles of Scilly, we'll be giving the same predictable answer as anyone else who's ever visited: "You have to go."

St Mary's is in the top 10... for offering a tropical getaway on British shores

Top 10 best British islands: No. 3 – Barra

Barra was the one island we had always wanted to visit before we began A British Island Adventure. Drawn as we were by its tropical white sands and the very idea of landing a passenger plane on a cockleshell beach. When we finally reached Barra, it wasn't by aircraft but it didn't disappoint. We sailed from Oban to Castlebay on the CalMac ferry, taking around five hours to reach our destination after sailing through the Sound of Mull, and into the Sea of the Hebrides with glimpses of Coll, Skye and the Small Isles along the way.

In many ways Barra is the ultimate Hebridean island – remote from the mainland it has a strong independent community that speaks Gaelic as often as not, and still fills the local churches. The size of the island seems just right, striking a satisfying balance between a 1,000 strong population and the wild, empty landscape of mountain and moor. It offers the experience of being apart from the world, yet without too much of the hardship that can be found on smaller islands.

The 383m summit of Sheabhal is perhaps the best place to understand Barra. From here you can see how Barra lies at the southern end of the Outer Hebrides, linked to Vatersay by bridge. How the north and west sides are edged with sandy beaches and the east coast frays away, giving in to the claim of the sea in the form of ragged inlets and hidden bays. Looking south, the chain continues way beyond Barra in a submerged mountain range of uninhabited islands: Sandray, Pabbay, Mingulay and Berneray to finish.

Barra is in the top 10... for being the epitome of a Hebridean island

Top 10 best British islands: No 4 - Skye

There are two main ways to get to Skye from the mainland: the old fashioned way by ferry from Mallaig to Armadale or the modern way across the Skye Bridge. Either way, you'll end up on an island of many parts. From the green slopes of the Sleat peninsula, to the outdoor adventure playground of the Quiraing; from the colourful harbour at Portree, to the doom-laden spires of the Cuillin Ridge. If you like being outdoors, you shouldn't have any trouble in finding astonishment here.

For us, the most astonishing place of all was Loch Coruisk – a slim body of water squeezed on either side by the Cuillin Hills. A boat from Elgol delivered us into this closed wilderness, where for a few hours we absorbed the velvety silence and the crisp reflections of the jagged peaks on the water.

At times, we may have walked at angles into the wind, and I may have had a brain-lock at the Talisker Distillery (not drink related), and T may have emptied a cupful of water from each boot after paths turned to rivers in the unceasing rain, but Skye is as close as you can get to the spirit of Macbeth's Scotland, so you shouldn't expect it to be too comfortable.

Skye is in the Top 10... for its incredible rocky landmarks: the Old Man of Storr, the Quiraing, and the Cuillins.

Top 10 best British islands: No 5 - Jura

Jura, Inner Hebrides, Scotland

Jura is wild. It chewed us up and spat us out and we loved (nearly) every minute of it. We failed to complete Evan's Walk, a six mile route along a stalker's path to Glenbatrick, because we couldn't cross a river. We were confused, befuddled and beaten by the Paps – Jura's crowning glory of three peaks – leaving us shaking on a narrow ridge as a rescue helicopter flew beneath us, giving us 'the sign' to go no further. As for the Corryvreckan whirlpool off the northern tip of the island, it was completely out of reach for two people on foot who had a bus to catch and a warm bed to return to.

Despite, or perhaps because of our over-riding sense of failure Jura stole our hearts. The island may be indomitable and harsh for the most part, but Jura also has some genuinely gorgeous, softer corners. It was an easy pleasure strolling northwards along the quiet, pot-holed road for instance, past turquoise inlets, charming houses and leafy glades. We stumbled across two adders knotted together, noticed a bat flying in broad daylight and marvelled at the carnivorous sundew plant. Memorable moments for sure, but we will return for the wild parts of the island that beat us on our first encounter.

Jura is in the Top 10... for its immediate, exhausting, seductive wildness.

Top 10 best British islands: No 6 - Shiant Islands

Shiant Islands, Outer Hebrides, Scotland

We couldn't get to St Kilda, so we settled for the Shiant Islands. Second best, or so we thought at the time. A short boat trip with Sea Harris carried us to this tiny archipelago that lies to the east of Tarbert, Lewis and Harris. 

A row of jagged islets, called the Galtachean, point the way to the two main islands. The largest is split in two, but joined by a ridge of pebbles occasionally breached by extreme high tides or storms. Garbh Eilean (Rough Island), to the north, is dauntingly steep and perilous to climb. We heeded our guide's warning and stuck to the more accessible Eilean an Tigh (House Island). As the name suggests, one small dwelling stands upon it, providing temporary shelter for the Shiant's owner and the occasional plucky visitor, as well as being a permanent home for the black rats that inhabit the island. The second island, Eilean Mhuir (Mary's Island), stands apart, yet remains close enough to form a bay that was filled with puffins when we visited in June.

The Shiant Islands receive less visitors than Staffa and St Kilda, yet boast some spectacular geological features of their own: columnar basalt sea cliffs, made from the same type of rock that forms Staffa, rear vertically upwards to a height of 120m above the sea. Various seabirds nest on the exposed ledges like ornaments on a shelf, while Great skuas and Great black-backed gulls circle the rim of the cliff in anticipation of an easy meal. It's an inspiring sight whether you're at the bottom looking up or at the top looking down. 

The Shiant Islands is in the top 10... for their magnificent 120m sea cliffs.

Top 10 best British islands: No. 7 - Staple Island

Staple Island, Farne Islands, Northumberland, England

We set sail on Billy Shiel's Glad Tidings IV on a two-stop voyage to the Farne Islands, disembarking at Staple Island and Inner Farne. Our vessel was crammed with photographers, each trying to outdo the other with the size of their telephoto lenses. Collectively we had one aim: to see and photograph the puffins. For those less star-struck, there were also a few thousand terns, guillemots, shags and kittiwakes to observe.

As we neared the islands, increasing numbers of birds began to plop into the water, streaks of puffins criss-crossed the sky in mechanical flight, and the entire landscape fizzed with creatures energetically going about their business. 

Hopping onto Staple Island, we were thrust among the nesting seabirds – a low rope fence being their only protection. You couldn't get closer to a wild animal without holding one. Every colour, texture and marking was apparent as they preened, ate, built nests, took-off, and landed right in front of us. Undoubtedly the Farne Islands are a paradise for photographers as much as for birds.

Staple Island is in the Top 10... for being home to one of the most extraordinary wildlife experiences in Britain.

Top 10 best British islands: No. 8 - Lindisfarne

Lindisfarne, Northumberland, England

No ferries are needed to reach the Holy Island of Lindisfarne in Northumberland. One road leads to the island, but not all of the time. Twice a day the North Sea surges across the tarmac, cutting off the island from the mainland. For the more romantic, or religious, the island can be gained using the Pilgrim's Way. At low tide a three and a half mile route, marked out in a straight line of tall wooden poles, stretches across the sand. Pilgrims have followed this footpath for centuries to visit the Holy Island. A wooden monastery was founded here in 635AD by the Irish missionary Saint Aiden with the aim of spreading the Christian message throughout pagan England. These days the religious side of the island jostles for the tourist's attention with the castle, tearooms and natural wonders, but the underlying spirituality remains key to the unique atmosphere of Lindisfarne. 

If at all possible, we'd recommend staying a night so you can get a better sense of isolation and a quieter, more private experience of the place. 

Lindisfarne is in the Top 10... for the historical, beautiful and spiritual experience of walking the Pilgrim's Way to reach the island.

Top 10 best British islands: No. 9 - Lewis and Harris

Lewis and Harris, Outer Hebrides, Scotland

Lewis and Harris is Britain's largest island, aside from mainland Britain itself. Although it's only one island it is often thought of as two, with Lewis to the north and Harris to the south. Harris in particular is a place to savour.

The journey from North Uist to Harris' capital Tarbert has to be one of the most scenic in Britain. It begins with a CalMac ferry trip from Berneray that weaves a precise route through the scores of rocks and islets of The Sound of Harris before docking at Leverburgh. From there the west coast road skirts huge sandy bays, and milky blue water. Eventually the road coils up into the rounded, rocky hills – a desolate expanse scoured and blunted by the weather. The road then descends again to Tarbert, which lies on a narrow isthmus and acts as a crossroad for the entire island. Head northwards for the mountains that include An Cliseam at 799m, eastwards to the island of Scalpay or westward along another incredible coastal road to Huisinis – none of these options will disappoint.

Harris is in the Top 10... for its sharply contrasting landscapes that range from idyllic beaches to lunar-like mountains.

Top 10 best British islands: No. 10 - Tiree

Tiree, Inner Hebrides, Scotland

We had never heard of Tiree before we began our project. It looked tantalising on the map – being the most westerly island of the Inner Hebrides, it gives the impression of drifting away from the archipelago towards the Outer Hebrides.

The CalMac ferry took us from Oban, through the Sound of Mull to Coll, where we stayed for a week before continuing the short journey to neighbouring Tiree. From the ferry, the island appeared to float like a thin disc on the sea. Due to its incredible flatness most of the island barely rises above sea level. Standing on the enormous, never-ending beach at Gott Bay it's hard to believe the island even exists – there seems to be no room left between the sea and the sky for the land to fit. Adding to its magical feel, a ring of sandy beaches encompass the entire island. Inland, almost every inch is divided up into neat, green rectangles of crofting land, then scattered with sheep. The people speak Gaelic, their traditional culture is strong, and it goes without saying how friendly and welcoming everyone is.

We knew nothing of Tiree, but now that we've visited, the island seems just as imaginary – a fictional island from a children's book, too good to be true.

Tiree is in the Top 10... for its awe-inspiring collision of sand, sea and sky.

Our favourite British islands... so far

With the island counter standing at 447, we thought it was high time we published a list of our 10 top trips so far. Although it might sound like a lot, we're still a long way from our goal and must admit to some major blind spots. The Orkneys and Shetlands are the obvious ones, but we've also been thwarted by the sea conditions in Wales whenever we've tried to reach the smaller islands.

When we reminisce about our favourite islands, it's amazing how often our memories are influenced by the weather. If we could return to Coll during a sunny week in early summer, for example, we're certain it would be battling for a place in the Top 10. But as it was, we travelled early in the year, without a car, and with the wind in our faces getting anywhere on a bike was seriously hard work. This experience couldn't help but cloud our view.

Undoubtedly all 447 of the islands have rewarded the effort spent getting to them, because there is always something unexpected to see. However much you know about a location beforehand, the element of surprise is still a huge part of the experience. Every island is different every day, so that makes our list entirely personal and subject to change as we visit more of them. Having said that, we would heartily recommend any island in our Top 10 as a brilliant destination for a holiday or day trip.